NOTE: We've only just updated our review to include a star rating and final verdict as we were waiting for final retail software. As per our reviews guarantee, we'll only deliver our rating on the same experience you'll get - we don't rush scoring for the sake of it.
So have the early issues of the preview model been fixed? Find out in our in-depth (and final) review:
Buy LG G4 at Amazon for $12.95
LG is on something of a comeback trail - the brand that killed it in the feature phone market, then fell apart when smartphone became 'a thing', is now starting to show signs it can be a front runner again.
The LG G4 is the result of years of forward momentum, combining the insane sort of specs we're used to seeing from the Asian manufacturers with a recognised brand and decent attempt to create a usable user experience.
But the last few flagship 'G' phones have had one thing in common: loads of good bits, but a slightly uneven finish. It's lacked the final polish that would have made it a market leader, but usually combined it with a cheaper price and therefore evened out the equation.
The LG G4 does a few things differently though. This time the brand has aimed for elements the user will actually want: longer battery life, improved camera and upgraded screen, and combined them with a slightly outlandish design: covering the thing in a leather coat that's certainly something the rest of the market hasn't seen yet.
There's an early sticking point that I didn't expect though: the LG G4 costs the same as a Samsung Galaxy S6, and more than an HTC One M9 and iPhone 6. Spec for spec I'd argue it warrants that price point, but it's taken away one of the key cards LG usually plays.
I've no doubt that when it starts shipping the cost will come down, but LG is clearly trying to position itself as a premium brand with the price tag to go with it. It'll cost you less than some of the other handsets on the market, as is LG's way - but it's nowhere near as cheap as previous models.
In the UK this phone retails for £479 (around $754, AU$950), which is only £10 less than the Galaxy S6 (since recent price cuts) - that's a hefty ask to rival the best smartphone on the market.
Design
I'm not sure what LG is doing with the G4. There are two options on offer, and I've been testing both. The first is a leather back, and the one that LG is pushing as the 'premium' model, and the latter is the polycarbonate version with a diamond effect.
It's attractive enough, and has the same brushed metal effect as last year, but lacks anything like the 'wow' factor LG is going for with the leather option.
Let's start with leather (on a separate note: a dangerous statement for a first date). I'm really disappointed with what LG has done here. It's too thinly stretched over the back of the phone to be considered premium, and when you're fighting against the beauty of the HTC One M9, it's a real misstep.
There are now two leather variants on the market, brown and black. The former looks more striking, but the latter feels a little more rugged, with a nicer experience in the hand. The leather doesn't feel as thin and stretched, for a start.
Leather could have been a good idea, if it had the same feel as an expensive wallet or watch strap. But the thin material used here almost feels plastic, not premium. The Moto X has a leather back option, and I know some people love it, but for many a leather back is a novelty, not a statement of wealth, luxury or quality.
And let's be honest: the leather back is just that, a back. One you can buy and clip on, rather than a part of the phone's design itself.
When it comes to the plastic version, the LG G4 doesn't feel as nice in the hand as the rest of the market's big hitters: the HTC One M9 has a really well-crafted finish, the iPhone 6 a lightweight ceramic feel that begs you to fondle it, and the Galaxy S6 has shown that Samsung's not completely inept when it comes to offering a phone made of metal and glass.The LG, on the other hand, is all about being lightweight and ergonomic in the hand. The rear cover bulges out a little to curve into the palm, which is designed to make it nicer to hold and allow for a greater battery space (3000mAh, compared to the 2500mAh on offer in the Galaxy S6, for instance).
One of the big features LG is making a big deal of is the fact said battery is removable, which explains the need for a plastic cover (easier to remove and less likely to break than a metal choice).
I'm not sold on the need to have removable battery. I know some people love the safety it brings, the idea that you can carry around a spare, but in reality I'd rather use one of the battery packs I've become accustomed to slinging in my bag - plus they're universal.
Making a battery removable does have the added benefit of letting you change it out if the power pack starts playing up a year and a half into your two year contract, but it comes at the cost of design. There's a reason the S6, One M9, iPhone 6 and Sony Xperia Z3 all look better than the G4, and that's the fact they have unibody chassis.
I'm glad LG has offered this choice just so one of the market's big hitters is doing it, and if you're one of those that think the leather is equally as premium as metal, then this is a great feature to have (the cover also hides the microSD slot too).
But the lack of unibody has minimised the amount of battery space available and made a less attractive phone.
The phone itself is large without being TOO unwieldy. Yes, we've become used to having massive phones in our hands, but where the LG G3 was just on the edge of being too big, this 5.5-inch screened device has been curved and hewn to make it a little less sharp to use in the hand.
You'll still need to wriggle it around quite a lot to use it day to day, but given the trade-off gives you a phenomenal QHD screen, it's worth it. That display is slightly curved, but I've not seen a great deal of use for that in general use.
The rear keys are present again - one of LG's favourite design tweaks - meaning that there's very little buttonry around the phone. The rear keys are easy to find, have a pleasant ridged effect and are distinct from other elements of the phone. I came to love them on the LG G2 and still find them really nice now.
The only other thing to point out is the infra-red port on the top of the phone - it's slight and most will miss it (and I'd rather it was on the rear of the phone as it makes controlling the TV a little easier when the phone is held up) but it's good to see its presence continuing.
Display
This is where LG first begins to flex its muscles: the display on the LG G4 is simply mind-blowing. I've often said that the screen on the phone is the thing most brands have to get right if there's any chance of making their phone a critical success among users, as it's the element most will use more than anything else.
However, while LG has a rich heritage in making impressive screens, it didn't use that power with the G3, making a darker screen that ticked the headline-making box of being the highest-res on the market.
This time around, the difference is quantum. Literally. The new Quantum IPS display on the LG G4 is really, really nice to look at, and vies for top spot with Samsung as the best on the market.
At 5.5-inches, it's not the easiest to navigate around with one hand... in fact, it's impossible. But what you get in return is a large display that displays everything amazingly well. The contrast ratio is the part that impresses me the most - it's almost as deep and rich as the Samsung Super AMOLED offering, which is really cool to see from an LCD.
The colours look rich and vibrant, which LG is talking up because it adheres to a more modern cinematic standard - the brand is all about making sure the buying public equates this phone to 'cinema quality' images.
It's an irrelevant point in practice, as it just means the colours are a little deeper, and the red especially are brighter than ever. There's a lot of science about how we all perceive different colours more strongly than others, but in reality it just means this is a very colourful screen.
LG G4 review
I really miss the ability to tweak the settings up and down - I'm all for deep, rich and even over-saturated colours, but many hate that - and one of the big advantages Samsung has is the option to change the intensity of the screen.
The other cool thing about the display is the 'Knock On' effect that allows you to wake the phone from sleep. It's really useful as it prevents the need of hunting around on the back of the phone for the power button.
It's such an intuitive way of opening the phone that I constantly do it on other handsets, irritated when it doesn't happen. It's not super accurate, sometimes needing a second to 'rest' before opening up, and the 'Knock Code' (meant to replace the PIN or swipe code method of security) is too fallible to be considered a really useful too.
Knock Code allows you to tap certain portions of the screen to create an invisible pattern that'll open your phone, but having used this for months I've never felt like it really works accurately all the time in the same way as the fingerprint scanner on the iPhones or the exceptionally speedy option on the Galaxy S6.
Some people swear by it though, so if you can settle on a code that's perfect for you and your tapping it's a nice option to have.
Source: www.techradar.com
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It’s alarmingly easy to break your smartphone. Drop it and you could end up with a cracked or shattered screen. If it falls in the toilet or you spill a drink on it then it could be lights out. Physical buttons can get stuck, chipped, or just worn out. Well-used headphone jacks might stop recognizing that cable. A scratched or cracked camera lens can spell the end of good photos. A lot can go wrong.
None of these things is cause to throw that smartphone away. There’s a lively trade in broken smartphones and that’s because people in the know about repairs can snap them up for low prices, fix them cheaply, and sell them on for big profits. Even if you are getting rid of your phone, you could make more by fixing it up first than it’s going to cost you to do.
Check your coverage first
If you encounter a defect that you didn’t cause and your smartphone is still under warranty then you may be able to go back to your retailer and get the manufacturer to fix it for free. It’s also possible that you have some form of coverage as part of your home insurance, credit card, or bank account. Some of you will have pulled the trigger on extended warranties or smartphone insurance.
Related: How to pick the best case to protect your device from life’s daily hazards
Take a look and see what the deductible is before you put in a claim. Sometimes the amount you’re expected to pay will actually exceed the cost of repairing it yourself or even going to a good repair service.
Fix it yourself
If you’re out of warranty or the damage isn’t covered then you might think about trying to fix it yourself. Before you begin, be aware that you’re almost certainly going to void your warranty by attempting a self-repair.
You’re almost certainly going to void your warranty by attempting a self-repair.
The golden age of the Internet means that a short video tutorial or a text and photo guide of just about anything you could ever want to know how to do is just a search away. If you’re confident in your abilities, or willing to have a go, then you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding a set of instructions to follow.
The best place to go is definitely iFixit where you’ll find an excellent set of step-by-step tutorials with instructions on the exact tools you need. The quality of the repair guides does vary, but there are some really excellent examples, especially for the most popular smartphones on the market.
YouTube is another obvious place to look for tutorial videos you can follow, and you’ll find lots of guides and a very helpful community at XDA Developers forum.
Getting tools and parts
Before you start you will need to secure the correct tools. Some manufacturers deliberately make strange fixings to discourage self-repair. If you don’t use the correct tools there’s a good chance you’re going to end up doing some damage. Make sure that you have a clean workspace with everything you need to do the repair before you start.
Sometimes the iFixit tutorials will include links to buy the necessary parts or tools, though you’ll often get a better deal by shopping around. You can find reliable parts and tools at eTech Parts.
Amazon and eBay have lots of cheap repair kits and parts on offer. You have to be careful about the parts because there are some low cost options that might be shoddy quality. Do a bit of reading about what you need before you start and check the reputations of sellers and the reviews of specific kits and parts before you buy.
A word of warning
It can be tough forcing smartphone components apart. The inside of most smartphones is messy and confusing. Sometimes it will feel like you’re going to break parts if you press any harder and sometimes you will break something. Some smartphones are much easier to take apart and fix than others. Certain repairs are not worth the bother of attempting and there are parts and tools that you simply can’t get at a reasonable price.
how to fix repair your phone
Image courtesy of exopixel/Shutterstock
You can generally find out how difficult it will be by checking the online guides and discussions. Consider the risk that you’ll botch the job, factor in your research, your tools and parts, and the time you are going to spend on it. A lot of people will be more comfortable getting someone else to do it. An experienced repair expert will know where to get the right parts, they’ll have the right tools, and they’ll be able to do the repair quickly and efficiently.
Hire someone or use a service
If you want the job done right it might be better to use a reputable repair service. They can still be cheaper than the deductible on an insurance claim in some cases. They’re also likely to be faster.
There are lots of big name chains that will do in-store repairs while you wait or within the day and you’ll find various online services where you can send your smartphone and get the fixed handset sent back to you within a week.
RadioShack just started offering in-store repairs for smartphones and tablets and they have another service where you drop the phone off in-store and they return it to your door within 72 hours. You’ll also find a repair service via Geek Squad at Best Buy, and there are a number of chains like Cellairis.
Small, independent shops will often give you a better quality of service.
If you’re willing to send your smartphone away then Mission Repair has a fairly good reputation and Jet City Device Repair comes highly recommended. You could also try Cell Phone Repair.
You may not have time to drop into a repair shop, or maybe you don’t want to send your phone away. A service called iCracked offers an interesting alternative where you get a free quote for the repair and then the technician comes and meets you. Some repairs they’ll do on the spot, or if it’s going to take longer then they’ll take your device and return it later.
Most decent places have at least one decent repair shop. Small, independent shops will often give you a better quality of service and a better price than the big chains.
Don’t just focus on the price. Make sure that you ask what warranty is offered with the repair. The longer, the better, as you don’t want to have to pay out again if the repair fails or the fault reoccurs.
Official repairs are best
It’s always worth checking with your retailer, carrier, or manufacturer as well. Generally, if you’re outside the warranty period, they’ll charge the most for repairs and they’ll take the longest, but there are exceptions. You never know until you ask.
Shop around, get quotes, check reviews and reputations, and then make an informed decision. You might just find that your broken smartphone is easier and cheaper to repair than you thought.
Remember privacy
One final word of warning we have to mention concerns your privacy. If you’re going to send your phone away or leave it in the repair shop for a few days then you should really consider making a complete back up and wiping your phone so there’s no private files or sensitive information left. It’s a hassle, but it’s the only way to be sure that someone won’t get their hands on your photos or emails.
Related: Selling your phone or tablet? Here’s how to completely wipe your Android device
Read more: http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/how-to-repair-your-smartphone/#ixzz3eZFG5iHg
Follow us: @digitaltrends on Twitter | digitaltrendsftw on Facebook
Source: www.digitaltrends.com
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If it's an inconvenience when your system crashes, it's a disaster when your hard drive heads south. Usually, that means your data is destroyed and your bits are blasted—unless you backed up, of course. But is your drive really dead, or just mostly dead? We'll show you how you might recover something, but be warned: this information is provided for use at your own risk and should only be used if the data on your drive is not worth the money to invest in professional repair. If the data means anything to you -- if you need it for your work or for legal purposes -- DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If your the next step is to throw away or otherwise recycle a really dead hard drive, then proceed at your own risk!
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Part 1 of 4: Confirm The Status of Your Drive
1
Verify the failure. Make sure your drive is truly broken by checking things that could cause your drive to not be recognized.
If your drive is making a steady, loud clicking noise, stop and skip to part two. Your drive is dead.
2
Check hardware connections. This is the best place to start, and if found to be the problem, is the fastest, most inexpensive fix you can make!
Make sure power is getting to the computer. If the cat knocked out the plug, or cable is broken, nothing will work.
Open up the computer case. Are the data (IDE or SATA) and power cables firmly in place? Make sure they are seated well, and no pins are bent, broken, or otherwise damaged.
3
Do a visual check. Sometimes, it's not the drive that's dead, but the PC board that controls its operation (on the underside of the drive). If there's a power surge, or a component failure on that board, your drive will stop working, but only because it doesn't know what to do next.
Look for signs of damage—burns or scorch marks. If you see this, you can breathe a little sigh of relief, for it means that is your likely culprit—and often times, this is a problem that can be fixed with relative ease.
If you want to replace the PCB, search on Google for replacement parts for your drive's make and model.
When it arrives, remove the old board (there are five tiny screws to remove—don't lose them!)
Slide out the old drive, and replace it with the new one. Do not touch the metal leads on the new board—static discharge could blow your new board before it ever has a chance to breath new life into your drive. You can ground yourself by either wearing an anti-static wrist band, or by touching something grounded and metal. The inside of your plugged-in computer will usually work.
Slide in the new board, making sure it's seated firmly into the drive, then re-attach the screws.
Reconnect the drive to the computer, then power back up. If it works, congratulations! It's a good idea to back up your data at this point, but you're good to go.
If it doesn't work—keep reading.
Check to see if the drive is being recognized. If everything is plugged in, and nothing appears to have blown up on the controller PCB, check out Windows Disk Management or BIOS, or Mac OS X Disk Utility to determine if your drive is being recognized at all.
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Part 2 of 4: Options for Repair
1
Make a choice: if this data is worth saving, it is worth finding a professional hard-drive recovery company and paying what it takes to get your data back. If you attempt anything at all yourself, chances of recovering any data professionally will be nil.
2
A quick search on Google for "hard drive replacement parts" will lead you in a couple different directions. Replacing parts may work for older hard drives, but usually not for newer ones.
Do it yourself. A favorite method of brave souls is the DIY method, promoted by companies that specialize in providing parts for do-It-yourselves. The idea is that if you simply replace the burned out controller board, your drive will spring back to life.
Truth is, maybe it will! But there's one big caveat: the chips on the controller are, more and more, calibrated for that particular drive, and there's no guarantee a replacement will work. However, this is by far the least-expensive option.
4
Hire a professional. This is the ONLY option to get your drive back up and running, or at least have the files on the drive recovered (which is really what you want, in the end).
Turnaround times can be quicker than the DIY method, and success is somewhat more assured, but it comes at a cost, which may be worth it if your data is important.
You can expect to pay two or three times more than the original cost of the drive, so you will have to weigh the value of the money against the value of the data on the drive.
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Part 3 of 4: Do It Yourself
1
Read this first! If your drive made a clicking sound the first time you plugged it in, any time you plug it in again causes loss of data by damaging the magnetic layer on the drive. Do not attempt this self repair if the data is important to you for work or legal reasons. Some of these techniques are "Hail Mary" attempts that will either work or render your drive truly, finally, really dead. This will totally and finally kill any part of data that is not already damaged.
2
Physically test the drive. Hold the drive in one hand and firmly spin it back and forth, listening for any noises as you do so. This may seem like "not doing anything" but actually if anything is loose, you may cause it to break!!! If you can't hear any noises, a likely cause—especially if you have an older drive, or one which ran very hot to the touch—is a seized head bearing or spindle. The following steps can be considered: If you open up the drive you are likely to kill whatever was still able to be saved.
3
Warm it up. Pre-heat a domestic oven at its lowest setting for five minutes or so, then turn it off. Place the drive in the oven for 2-5 mins, until it's warmed up. Please note that warming it up -- whether it has already crashed or not -- can and will make it die.
Remove the drive and repeat the first step. If you still can't hear any noises, go on to the next step. However, if there is a difference, reattach the drive to your computer and listen for spin-up of the drive and normal clicking that indicates head activity. If all seems well so far, try to access the drive, and move your data onto a good drive.
If needed, reheat the device and, whilst holding the drive in one hand, sharply spin and hit the drive on a hard surface. This is drastic of course, but may help free the heads from any binding. If anything was still alive on your hard drive, it will now be totally and finally dead.
Repeat the first step. Can you hear head movement now? If yes, re-attach the drive to your computer, and try accessing the drive.
If you can hear a rhythmic "click" in time with the movement, the chances are that the drive heads are free on their mounts and are not jammed. Check that you don't hear any rattling noises when you rotate the drive gently (back and forth) through 90 degrees. This would indicate loose and disconnected components inside the drive and are beyond the scope or intent of this article.
4
Chill it down. Another option—a controversial one—is freezing the drive. This is a last-ditch effort, and you may only get the drive back long enough to copy off important files, but if all else fails, it's worth a try.
Seal the drive in a zip-lock bag, and remove as much air as possible. Pop the drive into the freezer for a few hours.
Plug the drive back into the computer, and give it a try. If it doesn't work immediately, power down, remove the drive, then smack it on a hard surface such as a table or floor. Re-attach the drive, and try again. If it works, save your files, then toss the drive. If it doesn't, your drive will now be beyond all methods of professional help!!
Source: www.wikihow.com
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Tips for testing and finding out whether a drive is faulty.
All Seagate and Maxtor-brand SATA, ATA, and SCSI drives for desktop computers and laptop (notebook) computers have built-in error-checking capabilities. Over 30% of all drives returned under warranty to Seagate are in good working order, with no problems found. To save the time and hassle of shipping a drive that may not be defective, please test your drive to see if it really is defective.
The first step to test a drive: Please download and run SeaTools for Windows from the Seatools download page. See a full tutorial in Document ID: 202435.
The tests in Seatools will indicate Pass or Fail. If the drive fails the test, please begin the replacement process at our Warranty Services Page. If the drive fails the test but is out of warranty, you may continue to use it as long as you can, but remember to keep a full backup of your data at all times.
Seatools will test your S.M.A.R.T-compliant SATA, ATA, or SCSI disk drive for media defects, perform a read test and physical head test, and ensure the hard drive is functioning correctly.
If all the tests pass (no trouble found), the problem will be due to a different component in your system.
You can test your drive with CheckDisk. Document ID: 184611 - How to use CheckDisk.
Confirm all settings for hard drive jumpers, cables, and ATA, SATA, or SCSI controllers, as well as the operating system. Consult your host controller (motherboard) documentation or system manufacturer for assistance with SCSI termination or ATA / SATA controller capabilities.
Further notes:
-If the BIOS does not recognize the drive, or the drive does not spin up, Seatools will also be unable to detect the drive.
Here are some very useful tools to begin the troubleshooting process. If the drive becomes detected later, you can then test it using the steps in the article above.
The Serial ATA troubleshooter
Document ID: 168595 - The BIOS does not detect my SATA or ATA hard drive.
-The operating system will not assign a drive letter to a drive that is not formatted and partitioned. If you need help with formatting:
Windows 9x and ME: reference Document ID: 196151
Windows 7 / Vista: reference Document ID: 202291
Macintosh: reference Document ID: 207851
Source: www.knowledge.seagate.com
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Often installing an Antivirus does not protect your computer from viruses. The main reason for this is the fact that Antivirus is not updated regularly. Having an outdated Antivirus is of no use in protecting your PC from Virus Attack. But there are some basic precautions that we all can take to prevent Virus from entering your PC.
90 % of viruses enter our PC through Pen Drives. But this can be prevented even without having an Antivirus. Let's see how it can be done.
1. Open My Computer / Tools / Folder Options / View
2. Turn on Show Hidden Files And Folders. Most of the viruses come as hidden files. So enabling this feature helps to find them.
3. Now when you insert the Pen drive don't open it directly. If you open it by Auto Run or by Double Clicking, our PC will be attacked by the VIRUS if present in the Pen Drive.
4. Now open Start Menu / Search / For Files and Folders.
5. Here in the advance options Check "Search for Hidden Files and Folders".
6. Now select the Pen drive and search for autorun.inf file.
7. If you get one, in most cases it will be an Auto run for VIRUS.
8. Delete it if not Genuine.
9. Now look for all the .exe and .com files.
10. Delete all those suspicious files you get.
11. Remove the pen drive and insert It again.
12. Now the Pen drive is Safe and Free from Viruses.
13. Also 90 % of users use pen drives to transfer pictures, Songs and Movies.
14. Its Better to copy only the needed files from the Pen drive by using above search method.
Hope these tips are useful for you. Thanks with Regards, Team Dreamsoft
Source: www.teamdreamsoft.com
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Protecting your computer from viruses and other threats isn't difficult, but you have to be diligent. Here are some actions you can take:
Install an antivirus program. Installing an antivirus program and keeping it up to date can help defend your computer against viruses. Antivirus programs scan for viruses trying to get into your email, operating system, or files. New viruses appear daily, so set your antivirus software to install updates automatically.
Don't open email attachments unless you're expecting them. Many viruses are attached to email messages and will spread as soon as you open the email attachment. It's best not to open any attachment unless it's something you're expecting. For more information, see When to trust an email message.
Keep your computer updated. Microsoft releases security updates that can help protect your computer. Make sure that Windows receives these updates by turning on Windows automatic updating. For more information, see Turn automatic updating on or off.
Use a firewall. Windows Firewall (or any other firewall) can help alert you to suspicious activity if a virus or worm attempts to connect to your computer. It can also block viruses, worms, and hackers from attempting to download potentially harmful programs to your computer.
Use your browser's privacy settings. Being aware of how websites might use your private information is important to help prevent fraud and identity theft. If you're using Internet Explorer, you can adjust your Privacy settings or restore the default settings whenever you want. For details, see Change Internet Explorer 9 privacy settings.
Use a pop-up blocker with your browser. Pop-up windows are small browser windows that appear on top of the website you're viewing. Although most are created by advertisers, they can also contain malicious or unsafe code. A pop-up blocker can prevent some or all of these windows from appearing.
The Pop-up Blocker feature in Internet Explorer is turned on by default. To learn more about changing its settings or turning it on and off, see Change Internet Explorer 9 privacy settings.
Turn on User Account Control (UAC). When changes are going to be made to your computer that require administrator-level permission, UAC notifies you and gives you the opportunity to approve the change. UAC can help keep viruses from making unwanted changes. To learn more about turning on UAC and adjusting the settings, see Turn User Account Control on or off.
Source: windows.microsoft.com
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We all know computer viruses -- and other kinds of malware -- can cause problems ranging from irritating to catastrophic. Some malware replicates itself until it fills up all available space on your hard drive, turning your computer into a brick. Other kinds corrupt data on your machine or make your computer unstable. A few will even attempt to use your e-mail programs to distribute the malicious code to everyone in your contacts list. And there's always the possibility a cracker -- that's a malicious hacker -- will use malware to get remote access to your computer.
No one wants to own a computer infected with a nasty virus. That's why it's very important to practice safe computing habits and to install reliable anti-virus software. You can avoid most malware just by paying attention and staying away from a few common traps. If your anti-virus software is up to date, you should be in pretty good shape.
But once in a while, computer viruses get beyond our defenses. Maybe our anti-virus software is out of date or has been compromised by a particularly clever bit of code. Perhaps we clicked on a link by accident and activated a virus. Or someone else used our computer and downloaded some malware by mistake.
How do you know if your computer has been hit by a computer virus? If your anti-virus software is robust and up to date, you'll likely receive a message as the application scans your computer. That makes detecting the virus a breeze. But what if your software is out of date or the virus has managed to deactivate the anti-virus program? Are there signs you can watch out for that might indicate a virus?
As a matter of fact, there are several signs that could indicate the presence of malware on your computer. We'll take a closer look on the next page.
Signs of a Computer Virus
Assuming your anti-virus software hasn't alerted you to the presence of a virus, here are some indicators of malware on your computer:
If your computer has become unstable, that's a sign that something's wrong. Some malware messes with important files that keep your computer running properly. That could cause your computer to crash. If your computer crashes when you try to run a specific application or open a particular file, that tells you that something has corrupted the data. It could be malware.
Does your computer seem to run much more slowly than it used to? This could be the result of malware as the malicious code begins to drain your computer's processing resources. If you aren't running a resource-heavy application but your computer is very slow, you might have a computer virus.
Strange messages indicating that you can't access certain drives on your computer are another sign that something is wrong. In a similar vein, applications that won't run or files that won't open may also be the result of infection. Other indicators include hardware (like printers) that no longer respond to commands. While none of these guarantee the presence of a virus, they do suggest that something is wrong with your machine.
If you notice that file sizes are fluctuating even if you aren't accessing those files, that's another sign of a computer virus. And finally, if you access menus and their appearance is odd or distorted, you could be the victim of a malware attack.
It's important to remember that computer viruses are one potential cause of problems like the ones we've listed here, but that they aren't the only cause. If you believe your computer has been infected by a virus, don't panic. Follow the steps we suggest in How To Remove a Computer Virus. You might lose some data in the process but you shouldn't lose everything.
Source: www.electronics.howstuffworks.com
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